Turnigy Buggy Hop-Up Guide

Suspension:

Let’s start with the suspension.  First off get aluminum pivot blocks.  They’re a problem on the Kyosho and that problem is only magnified with the parts quality of the Turnigy.  Next is the shocks.  The shocks must be modified so that the chassis bottoms out otherwise all the force created by the weight of the buggy is concentrated on the middle of the suspension arms at the point in which the shock bottoms out.  This causes breakages which, again, are magnified by parts quality.  By using Traxxas Slash shocks, I’ve actually gotten away with the stock arms so far thanks to this mod but I still have Kyosho parts in waiting.  HPI shocks have also been proven to work well.  I did replace the pivot blocks with aluminum since they are prone to breaking.

I used spacer that came in Drive Hex Part #KYOUM603

Along with more spring options these shock offer better dampening than the stock shocks due to the larger diameter of the shocks.  Because this is a 2wd truck, I don’t see any good reason to use any big bore shocks.  Yes, I said truck.

SC Mod:

The idea behind this was simple.  If the Kyosho Desert Buggy is based on the Ultima SC, and the Turnigy Desert Buggy is a clone of the Kyosho, then I should be able to convert the Turnigy into a cheap short course truck.  The conversion was just as easy in practice as it sounds.  Install the Kyosho Body Mount Set KYOUM604 and you’re ready to go.  You’ll also need to get a total of 4 extra button head screws M3x8 and 2 M318.  The side bumpers will also need to be modified to fit properly.  You may also want the Kyosho Ultima SC Bumper Skid Plate and Support Set KYOUM602 to complete the look.  For racing I would recommend AKA Racing Mounted Enduro Short Course Tires AKA13002SRA.  The SC body is a Ford F250 body from Proline.  The SC designs allows more shock from crashes to be absorbed by the body which only increases durability.

You need the M3x20 screws because the stock screws aren’t long enough with the added body mount.

SC Bumper Install:

Start by removing the 4 screws from the bottom of the chassis and these two screws.

This will separate the Drive train from the vehicle.  You will also need to remove the two turn buckles.

Take this time to install your aluminum pivot blocks if you have them.  The only mod you will have to do to install the pivot blocks is trim down the bottom plate like so.

I suggest using the screws provided in the kit for the RR (rear, rear) pivot block, but use the stock screws for the FR (front, rear) block since they are longer and not self taping.

You will need to completely disassemble the botom plate and  motor guard so that you can remove the motor guard and replace it with the rear bumper piece.

Completion of the rear bumper is vey simple from here.  You may need a few extra screws to complete the installation.  I had some left over from my Mad Force build that I used.  You should only need about 4.

Now onto the fron bumper.  Start by removing the stock front bumper.  Remove this odd little piece and place it on the new bumper like so.

The rest of the installation is exactly like the stock front bumper, just bigger.

I’m thinking about a few more mods but she is pretty much done.

Update!

Hobbyking is now selling the desert buggy from the USA Warehouse!  They are also selling a lot of aluminum upgrades with reasonable prices.